Masking Tape Weathering

By Shawn Branstetter, photos by the author.

With so many techniques for weathering your models, you might find yourself asking, which one is right for this project? I have asked myself this question far to many times.

The answer, experiment!

That’s right. You will truly never know until you try them first. Be familiar with the material you are working with and then you will find what works and what does not work.

This project came about after looking (and envying) the work of Chuck Doan. He had mentioned in one of his photo captions that he used masking tape to pull up paint that was not quite dry giving a very realistic “peeling paint” effect. Which leads me to this article.

This will be my first attempt trying this, so I am sure I will better the technique as I practice more.

Scrap Box

As stated before, it is important to practice any and all new techniques. Most modelers have a scrap box and many have several. This is a junk drawer or drawers if you will, filled with scrap lumber or plastic from previous projects. Cheep testing material. You save money and trips to the hobby shop.

So it begins

I will set aside some pieces of scrap basswood material. This will give me a chance to fine-tune my technique.

For tape, I am using an ordinary lint brush. I like this because it has manageable squares of masking tape, which is very sticky. This is important in order to pull up the paint.

I begin by painting the stripwood with a brush. Allow the paint to dry but not completely, just dry to the touch. 

I will be using two colors to test the results. One will be a lighter color and one will be darker as pictured above.

Once the paint is dry, you can "peel" your paint a couple of ways. You can either place it flat on your workbench or fold your tape (sticky side up) and place it onto the model. As we go along, I will be using both methods for different results and projects.

I want to see what the results will be with both colors and see if I can vary the amount of weathering. With the tape flat on my workbench, with it's sticky side up, I  began to lightly press the stripwood into the tape. As you can see from the tape the paint easily pulls right off. The more you press the material onto the tape, the more paint will be removed. This is great news! And as you can see in the photo below, I can vary the weathering effects. I only placed the lighter paint onto the tape for just about five or six times on just a flat surface where the darker one I used both a flat surface as well as a folded piece of tap in my hand and focused on one or two spots.

To me the results are outstanding and now to really get down to weathering.

Aging Wood

The previous test was plain stripwood. I did not sand or weather it in any way. But now I want to see what I can really do with the effects I just learned. 

For this process, I will age my wood with ink and watercolor as described in my forum post here. I also added some Grantline nut-bolt-washer castings, which are painted with Poly Scale Roof Brown,  to see what the effect will be on plastic. I  aged the wood first because when you peel the paint, the grey weathered wood will show through adding to the realism.

I added a coat of paint. In this case, I used Poly Scale Undercoat Light Grey. Once the paint was tacky, I began to use the tape (held in my hand) to remove the paint. 

Wanting to add a little more contrast between the wood and paint as well as the ridges in the wood, I gave the entire piece a light wash of India Ink and water. This really exposed the raw wood and blended the colors nicely.

I then let it dry then gave my work one more coat of paint. This greatly increased the contrast and added more texture to the wood. As before, a light wash of India Ink blended the colors and as you can see below, the results are pretty realistic.

 

Final Thoughts

I discovered that with the heavily textured wood the paint is much harder to remove than the smoother wood. I do like the results. There is a lot of potential with this technique and I would like to see it used on a complete building or other materials such as plastic or brass.

 

About the Author

Shawn Branstetter's picture
I am a graphic designer and founder of Shortline Modelers Lounge. I love California shortlines of all types, especially logging.

Comments

eTraxx's picture
Well. Here's a "What NOT to do". Needing some doors, I scratched-together a pair using some Rusty Stumps windows and some strip-wood. My big mistake was not using the air-brush. I sprayed a layer of rattle-can gray primer then used Gum Arabic dabbed .. then brushed a green acrylic .. followed by scraping with knife blade and a wire brush. Oh well. Going to try again using styrene. This time .. the air-brush will come out. Thinking .. hair-spray technique maybe ..
Shawn Branstetter's picture
I have also been reading it might be a good idea to seal the undercoat with a dull or gloss then apply the top layer. I was going to try an airbrush but haven't got that far. I am also worndering if rubber cement and masking tape will work better for heavier weathering?
Shawn Branstetter shortlinemodelers.com
eTraxx's picture
I had pretty good success while ago with my first attempt at weathering using the hairspray technique. These are scale 1"x6" HO lumber (that's about .010x.060). I first brushed Floquil gray primer. Let that dry overnight .. just because I could. Splotched a little AI wash this morning and when that dried I sprayed a pretty heavy layer of hairspray .. White Rain Extra-Hold I picked up at the dollar store (pump). I let that dry and then airbrushed a acrylic .. Createx Opaque White .. this is an airbrush paint. Used a hair dryer (picked up a Revolon model at WalMart for $10) to quick dry. I then used a stiff brush (like you use to paint acrylics with) .. tap water .. and kinda sorta brushed and dabbed at the surface. Think it came out pretty dang good!
eTraxx's picture
I'm going to do this again later with some larger strip wood .. actually coffee stirrers .. and take in-progress pics this time. Here's something that might be of interest. I made up two 'stains' to gray wood .. Ferrous Sufate and Iron Buff. Think I need to play with them a bit .. the Iron Buff might work well if I diluted it a bit
eTraxx's picture
Was playing around with Chuck Doan's method .. as it was as of April last year ... note that it is similar to what you started this thread with, pulling the paint with tape. The only diff is that he uses a brushed on layer of thinner to help keep the paint from sticking .. [QUOTE] Silverwood Bragdon powder (weatherd brown, color not critical though) brushed on, blow off excess Thinner Paint 3-5 coats of Polly Scale full strength, wait 15-30 sec or so between applications Light score with knife in direction of grain* Tape peel* Dullcoat after thorough drying Sandblast with 20 PSI baking soda (optional for dulling and some more paint removal) *these steps are done maybe 30 sec to 1 min after last coat of paint. Kind of subjective, but don’t wait too long. [/QUOTE] * - Silverwood - Well. Don't have any Silverwood .. so I used my Iron Buff (steel wool in white vinegar for 24 hrs) * - Bragdon powder - again .. don't have so I scraped a brown pastel * - Thinner .. had that * - Poly Scale - nope .. used Applebarrel Sandstone acrylic craft paint Worked .. ok. I think I needed to let the acrylic setup longer before attempting to remove it. So. I took some Gum Arabic and dabbed it over the wood. When that had dried I put a couple coats of FolkArts Vintage White. When that dried used some tape (had that sticky foam tape) .. and pulled on the paint. This was your original method Shawn .. just added the Gum Arabic. Note that by not removing all of it .. it made the paint kinda .. bubbly and distorted .. kinda like that. Think it came out pretty good. I'm not completely satisfied but getting closer I think. This is a coffee stirrer .. about 5-1/2" long and .040x.160
Shawn Branstetter's picture
I think the result is great. I really like the cracking paint which adds to the weathered appearance.
Shawn Branstetter shortlinemodelers.com

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