This is not a new, and certainly is not an original, idea, tip or hint, but from time to time it deserves revisiting for the benefit of newcomers and to refresh the minds of old fogies. Not all railroad ties were created equal. A lot of them were not treated with preservatives and in fact many were not even sawed into 4 sided timbers. They were simply tree sections chopped into the correct length and hewed flat on the “up side” to take rail and spikes. I have seen some extreme examples that just left the logs round! I think we have to do a little better than that for models to work properly but even that could be done on abandoned sections.
Most any layout can find some use for this “tie” technique somewhere. The old logging roads did this on their “main lines” and virtually everyone did it anywhere there was a tree standing when they ran out of “proper ties” in an emergency. This can be used on an old spur or industrial track, abandoned right of way where the rail has been removed or, depending on the era, just about anywhere you want to use it. It looks terrific and is easy to do as long as you do things in the proper order and don’t get in too big a hurry. It is simple and requires very little in the way of materials or cost and is fun.

Start by collecting twigs of the appropriate size (diameter). For “O” scale that’s about ¼” in diameter or about 1 scale foot. HO would be about half that and frankly I haven’t tried it that small. It’s getting awfully tiny for the next step which is sanding.
Actually you have to cut all the twigs to length first, since I model On30 that’s about 6’6”, but you might have something different to work with. I set up my miter box with a wood block and clamped it in position to make all the ties the same length. It’s quick and easy. My stock is American Black Walnut. It matters because this species has hollow twigs when they dry out. I wouldn’t use them for extensive operating trackwork but for a scenic accent they are perfect. Check your twigs before committing to a large project.

Next comes the first sanding part. I use a sanding board shown in the next picture. It is a piece of ¾” plywood with a sheet of 60 grit sandpaper and a sheet of 220 grit paper glued to it with 3M spray adhesive. It has a couple of advantages. It is flat and easily held in my lap or on the workbench. I can hold the object to be sanded and rub it across the surface and be guaranteed to get a flat part. No rocking back and forth which will happen when you do it the other way around. You will get a curved part every time. Hold the twig in your fingers and rub it across the sandpaper and it will soon have a flat all across one side.

Don’t sand more than 1/3 of the way through; just make sure you have enough of a flat spot to provide a good solid glue surface. If you have twigs of smaller diameter (you will) don’t sand them as much.

When all your twigs are sanded on the one side get out some epoxy glue. I use 30 minute type. You probably should too, although I’ve heard tell of folks doing this with plain old wood glue, I wouldn’t trust it myself. Glue the ties, flat side DOWN. You’ll notice that for this demo the ties are glued to a wood board. Don’t try to glue them to foam because the next step, sanding again, will rip them right off the foam. If you lay track right on foam this isn’t going to work for you. You’ll have to replace it with a wood insert. However, I do believe that the ties will adhere to cork roadbed if they are properly bonded. I haven’t tried that yet but I think in the dim recesses of my past that this was done that way.

I used about a 30” spacing on the demo board and did everything by eye. Put the smaller diameter twigs between two larger ones. This will help prevent a dip in the track. The funkier this is the better, but we do want it to function well. Let everything set overnight. Don’t believe the 30 minute thing. It might work out for you but my experience tells me it doesn’t completely cure for about 24 hours. It’s more like rubber cement until then.


Get a long block (about a foot or so) and glue some 60 grit sandpaper to one side. I use a 1x2 and taper the ends so it won’t catch on the ties. Gently sand the tops of the twigs until you get them even and level enough to spike rail to it. In other words, sand until the smallest diameter twig has just enough flat surface to take a spike. If it’s abandoned track without rail it’s obviously not real important to make it smooth and level.

You can now finish it with ballast or dirt and weeds. Don’t forget to weather the raw wood. Spikes may split some of the ties. You can pre drill them or just let them split to enhance the old rotted out effect.
I doubt seriously anyone ever used a tie plate on this type of tie. Maybe at a switch location?
Addendum: You might want to make your sanding block longer if you are going to use this technique extensively. If so, be very sure that it is absolutely straight and flat, you don’t want to sand imperfections into your roadbed. You might even consider using aluminum extrusions like a 2”x2” tube. There are also aluminum sanders made for model airplane wings available in local hobby shops that specialize in model airplanes or through Tower Hobbies via the internet. They would work well for this.
Comments
David. That's pretty interesting. Now if I can figure out some place to use that technique! :)
Shawn Branstetter
shortlinemodelers.com
i may have to try some of those
While this technique started out as a quick demo it has already been integrated into the aborning Tonopah Southern. I ran the demo board through the table saw and trimmed close enough to the ties to leave a 30 degree bank on each side. I then glued it down to the foam sub base that I use for 0 elevation point. It will represent an abandoned piece of track made that way by a flash flood that wiped out a small trestle over a desert wash that connected it to the engine service area. In the steam days they dumped ashes down the mostly dry creek. When the "big one" hit the TS just didn't bother rebuilding the trestle, diesels having long ago taken over. It is now isolated but not forgotten.
I love this kind of layout "design". A simple technique that becomes a scenic focal point I "discovered" because I wanted to share an old idea... True freelance design!!
If anyone watches the show "Hell on Wheels" on AMC it will show some pretty cool early rr building including ties, the roadbed or trench in this case as well as some really fast locomotives.
John Staehle
Yes John, My wife is addicted and I watched the newest one a couple days ago with her. The 4-4-0 or American type locomotive was very fast indeed with the big driver diameters used on the examples in the series. I think 100 mph was not uncommon for them even during that time frame but not over the track Durant was building!! Times change, the UP is now known for their fastidious main line track maintenance. When the original Transcon was "finished" nearly every foot of the UP side had to be rebuilt in order to handle normal freight and passenger traffic. There weren't enough ties nor spikes to hold the rail in gauge and the bridges and trestles were substandard. The Central Pacific was in much better shape. The Big Four robber Barons on the left coast evidently intended to actually operate a railroad when they were done and Durant never had those intentions. He was a construction company designed to strip the government of every nickle he could get. The CP guys were not angels, of course, but they did actually build an operable railroad, not a shell.
I've reattached an image of the demo board in the larger context of a scene in my layout. Unfinished but more representative of how it might look in situ.
Looks good to me. I really like 'mini scenes' like that